Bookworm Blog

A blog about books, embroidery and other fun stuff.

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What better place than this then could we find, by this sweet stream that knows not of the sea, that guesses not the city's misery, this little stream whose hamlets scarce have names, this far-off, lonely mother of the Thames? - William Morris, 1896

May 2012
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My love-hate relationship with “the Swedes”

Posted By on March 7, 2012

Why do we keep on buying from this cheap fashion house? We know the effects their products have on the environment and the producers in third world countries, some of us may even be lucky enough to have well paying jobs, which allow us to consume high quality products and not rely on these goods which we know so well to be produced under unfair circumstances. What, apart from the obvious price-advantage, keeps us going back to the most famous discount fashion supplier in the world? I don’t want to start an article about conditions in the textile industry – that’s a can of worms best left for another post  – but instead I’d like to talk for a minute about good design.

A lot of the items this company sells could be referred to as basic pieces. Here, I’m referring to the things that everyone wants to have in their wardrobe to compliment the style of the moment. These items may be as basic as a pair of jeans or socks, but it’s the minute details of these products that make people automatically say “That’s exactly what I’ve been looking for”. Designing these basic items with a feel for the fashion of the moment is more difficult than it seems, and many companies either get it wrong completely – and the items look dated and bland – or deliberately create pieces that have a little something extra – thus making them unique, which is great, but creating a product that just doesn’t satisfy the general market.

Take for example, a simple top. A loose fitting, off-white top with a peter pan collar, boat neckline and short, slightly puffy sleeves. The consumer going into any shop generally has a basic idea of “the fashion” in their minds. According to the consumer’s interest in clothing and style, this idea may come from fashion magazines, blogs, advertisements, the seasonal collections of large fashion houses or just from seeing what their friends, and other people on the street, are wearing. However, they will usually also have an idea in mind of their own, personal style, what they would wear and what they would not. Whatever this idea of style may be, the majority of consumers aren’t looking for anything too flashy or over the top, chances are they want to look stylish and unique, but without been branded as fashion victims.

Honor spring/summer 2012 collection

Companies know this, and it creates the first disqualifying criterion for their designs – although they should be loosely based on the general idea of style created by the runway pieces of the big fashion houses, the products should be wearable. The t-shirt in question certainly fulfills this first criterion, it is simple and understated and could be worn by almost anyone, regardless of body type. However, as mentioned above, our idea of style doesn’t just come from big name designers. The creation of trends is a symbiotic process between pop-culture, the media, designers and consumers – it is rare that a trend can be followed back to one original source, as most are born through people’s conscious or unconscious observation of the world around them and its “Zeitgeist”.

It just so happens that the Zeitgeist of our era is one in which post-modernism and retroism play a large part. This is combined with people’s desire to express their individuality and create their own style, which was often achieved by purchasing second hand or vintage items from the 70s and 80s. Fashion conscious young people have been purchasing vintage signature pieces and combining them this way for years. Sooner or later large companies cottoned on to this, and started recreating the kinds of pieces that could previously only be found through hours of trawling thrift stores, and made them available for the masses. This retro spirit has permeated our culture for years, and finds outlet in such varied forms as the shabby chic, slow food and rockabilly movements.

The Lisbon sisters

Companies  see the popularity of instagram and lomography, they’ve seen films like “The Virgin Suicides”, have heard Lana Del Rey’s “Video Games” and have noticed people’s apparent longing for a softer world of low saturation and high exposure, where everything looks better on Polaroid. And so they created a product to capture this longing. A simple t-shirt, but with a slightly tomboyish cut that suggests youthfulness, no unnecessary details, a washed-out coloring that’s not quite white and not quite cream and a cute, rounded collar – the product looks as though it could have been made in the late seventies. The consumer enters the store after hours of wandering around looking for something that’s just right, sees the t-shirt and thinks “That’s exactly what I’ve been looking for”. They look at the price tag – 14.99€ – they would probably pay more but are still happy to have found something perfect at such a good price, they spare a quick thought for the textile workers in Bangladesh – and  take the product to the check-out.

Home sweet (future) home…

Posted By on October 14, 2011

My time in Bonn has thus far been spent in a small appartment near the town center, furnished with beautiful Jugendstil furniture and with an (almost) view of the Rhein. Although most of our time here has been great, the rent is quite high, and there have been a few landlord related problems, which has led to Marcus and I coming to the conclusion that we’ll probably be moving out as soon as possible after finishing uni. This is highly likely to become a difficult and exceedingly expensive process, but I’m still really excited about it, and have been busily dredging through my tumblr looking for inspiration for the perfect home decor.

The living room:

 

Fear my utter disregard for perspective!

For me, a living room needs to be a comfortable, multi-functional place, where you can entertain guests, work on the computer, watch TV or just relax and eat biscuits without having to worry about clearing up too often. This room has to hold a lot of stuff and still maintain a cosy atmosphere.

This little swatch shows the kinds of textures and colours I’d like to use, the brown stripy thing in the background is a sofa blanket we bought from eBay :) I’d like to use a lot of natural colours and ethnic prints, and maybe include some more classic looking florals, but without it turning into a shabby chic kitsch-fest (mainly because I don’t think my boyfriend would allow it ;-) ).

I love the countryside feel and the use of warm wood tones and baskets in the first picture, but it’s much too floral and girly. The brick fireplace and muted colours in the second image are beautiful, but I find the blank white walls and plain fabrics a bit too sterile -  a mix between both styles would be great.

Another pattern collage, I’d totally love to make a cushion in each of these fabrics!

The fairy lights are great!

 

Some of the ornaments in my parent's house.

I know I said no kitsch, but I’d still love to have a shelf or two to display some of my ornaments and antiques, and maybe grow some ferns in pots.

Just about everything’s perfect about this room (except perhaps the leather couch) I absolutely love the heavy wooden furniture, faded kelims and tiffany lamps, and I’m sure Marcus wouldn’t be too dissapointed about having a bar in his living room either ;-)

Ice Cream Colours…

Posted By on April 15, 2011

(Quite possibly one of the coolest photos I've ever seen)

To be honest, when I first saw that the highstreet was filling up with soft, fluffy pastel colours this season, I was all ready to go out on a buying rampage like the world has never seen before.  I was just so stoked at the prospect of being able to wear cute, ice cream colours out on the street without being stared at like some kind of weird fetishist. However, for my own protection and so as not to go out and entirely empty my bank account in a day, I decided to have a look through my inspiration file first to see how other people were wearing pastels, with mori girl and other fashions, before jumping on the bandwagon straight away. Here’s a photodump of what I found whilst rumaging, I generally don’t save the origins of photos, because I am an idiot, so if you’re the owner, please tell me and I’ll credit you straight away :-)

Replace brown: My first idea was actually facepalmingly obvious – mori girl outfits use lots of brown items, so why not just replace a few of these with pastels whilst sticking to the mori girl staples like lace, layering and a loose silhouette. You could replace a brown waistcoat with a floral one, like in the first picture, or mix a bit of pink into a mainly brown/white outfit. I’m also kinda in love with the hair colour of the girl on the far right – it’s like a mixture of fawn and pink?

Florals: + pastels are another obvious one. I like the way the print dress is combined with a more slouchy cardigan in the 1st and 4th outfits, it makes it look more casual, and less like something you’d wear to a garden party. I also love the way some of these floral patterns have a touch of faded neon in the colours.

Denim: Combining pale colours with denim jeans or a jacket looks a bit more grown up, but can still be super cute, especially with pale denims.

Darker colours: I find that the same applies to adding darker colours in an outfit – adding a splash of black, grey or dark brown seems to look more grown up.

Dolly kei and Cult Party: These styles also use pastels and pale colours – often in the form of faded florals, ruffled skirts and washed out motif t-shirts – and can be toned down as much as you want (for those who don’t wish to wear teddy bears as a scarf). I love the embellished bags they have!

Fairy kei: I must admit to being a closet fan of this style, especially in its more casual form (like in the pictures), although I also admit that it would be very unlikely that I’d wear it out of the house! This is what immediately came to my mind when I first saw that pastels were becoming so “in”, but somehow I can’t imagine myself ever wandering the streets with Popples pinned to my bag or an I <3 Ken t-shirt, it could make great room-wear though…

Alice Deco à la Mode Magazine

Posted By on March 28, 2011

Cover Autumn 2009

Definitely one of my all time favourite Japanese magazines. The basic principle of Alice Deco is to show how you can use lolita pieces in creative ways,  as opposed to following “lolita rules”, by mixing them with non-brand and vintage items but also with other Japanese street styles, including fairy kei, mori girl and even dolly kei. Because of the experimental nature of a lot of the ideas, the styles shown in Alice Deco generally range from the casually eccentric to the clinically insane, so don’t expect to find anything in here that you could wear to work. However, part of the fun of fashion magazines is, of course, to present a look book of ideas that you may never experience in “real life” that you can pick and choose from and dress up or down however suits you.

Autumn 2009

Layering plays a big part in the Alice Deco look, you’ll find a lot of dresses over skirts, lace petticoats and interesting vests. Contrasting accessories, shoes, hats and patterned tights are also used often, and there are also almost always references to the ultimate lolita muse herself – Alice in Wonderland.

Summer 2009, Spring 2010

Most of the magazine is taken up by photoshoots, but there is always a hair, nails and makeup section, a few pages of street snaps and giveaways, but also a section with clothes patterns and tutorials, similar to the Gothic and Lolita Bibles.

Summer 2008

The image above is actually the photoshoot that made me fall in love with mori girl for good, and reaslize how versatile the style can be. I just love the mix of delicate vintage fabrics and lace with chunkier accessories like the fur vest, but also how you can make it work with colour palettes as different as pastels and wine, as long as the general feel is natural.

Authumn 2009, Spring 2010

I’ve mainly posted scans here with a mori or dolly vibe, but there really is something for everyone in this magazine, and I really enjoy drooling over the pastel, fairy kei and sweet loli coordinates too, although it’s something I’d never wear myself!  All scans courtesy of thevisual_beast at livejournal, some magazines are available for download there, but the others can be read online at vvshu.com. Hope you enjoyed this little feature, I’ll probably be doing mori girl papier as the next part of this series :-)

 

Quick Crafts Update…

Posted By on March 25, 2011

Sorry about the lack of posts over the last few weeks, I’ve been distracted by practically everything – work, uni,  my obsessive-compulsive reading habits, and even sport! So I thought I’d just do a little craft update post to get into the swing of things again. :-)

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Quick Post: Floral Backpacks

Posted By on March 9, 2011

Floral backpacks are something that’s caught my attention lately and struck me as being really great for mori girls. They combine a cute, retro feel with practicality and more than just a hint of “nerdy exchange student”, and are perfect for anything from hiking in the mountains to a short trip to the library. Photo above stolen from: http://ohyeahmorigirl.tumblr.com

More eye candy under the cut ^^

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Sweet (deco) dreams…

Posted By on March 1, 2011

Macaron necklace from japanese brand Q-Pot

I’ve always been a little “scared” of doing sweets jewellery, partly because I have absolutely no idea about jewellery making, and partly because I just didn’t have any good ideas for it. But, over the last few days, I’ve been watching a few jewellery making videos on youtube, and now I’m pretty sure it’s not that hard at all! (Not hard to do wrong, I mean… >,<)

Although sweets deco tends to be more of a lolita/fairy kei trend, it can be made into cute, detailed accessories that also work well with mori girl – one of the points on the mori girl checklist is even “Loves the vibe of Q-Pot candy-shaped accessories”. Today I’ve been collecting a few ideas from browsing the web and the livejournal decoden community – pictures under the cut!

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Spoon Magazine

Posted By on February 23, 2011

Sooner or later this was going to come out anyway, so I thought today I would take the chance to reveal one of my slightly odder passtimes: … I download japanese fashion and craft magazines off the internet. Strangely enough, my complete ignorance of the language doesn’t actually affect how much fun I have “reading” these – a lot of the craft magazines have nifty little hand drawn diagrams showing you how to make the items, and fashion is more of a visual medium anyway. So, now I’ve got that off my chest, I thought I’d share some of my favourites here, starting with Spoon (yeah, for some reason a lot of these mags have really dodgy sounding names).

Although they don’t stick to one specific style, the key words you could use to describe the fashion in Spoon are “girly” and “quirky”. Brands commonly featured include Emily Temple Cute, Little Twin Stars, Curly Collection and Sanrio. Colours and cuts are 50ies retro, frilly and reminiscent of childhood – the models themselves are usually styled in an almost disturbingly childlike fashion, with huge, shirley temple curls and almost offensively pink cheeks. Although they often include  mori girl outfits (and even produced a special issue all about the style), it’s often done with a twist – for example combining a casual sillouhette and natural colours with mustard yellow tights or a bright, navy blue cardigan. Common themes include: pom pom trims; unusual prints such as rabbits, ballet slippers or pretzels(??!?); classic prints like gingham, polka dots and tartan; bows; biscuits; baguettes; and loose, almost clumsy sillouhettes.

Some of my favourite scans after the cut – all courtesy of jmagazinescans livejournal community!

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Mori Girl Basics – Summer

Posted By on February 15, 2011

There are some items which, although the style isn’t old enough to have developed the specific “rules” that other fashions have, just seem to me to be quintessentially mori girl. Although there are naturally a thousand ways to combine these items and interpret them into the style, they still seem like “wardrobe basics” that would feel at home in any mori girl’s closet.

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A Trip to Linz…

Posted By on August 10, 2010

A quick photo post of the day Marcus and I went to Linz, an adorable town in Rheinland Pfalz with tons of old fashioned buildings and a romanic church. This town is really unbelievably sweet (kinda like walking into a Christmas diorama in summer), as most of the houses are Fachwerk and often painted with floral motivs and kitschy homely mottos. Linz is also surrounded by gorgeous Rheinish countryside, and on a day with such mediterranean weather it felt like we were on holiday despite only being 30 minutes from home.

Piccies, as always, under the cut…

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